Issue 28:
Modern Rites of Passage
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Korea
By U.
Utah Phillips
From The Past That Didn't Go Anywhere
Righteous Brothers Records, 1996
(c) Utah Philips
Part I
I have just left your fighting sons in Korea.
They have met all tests there, and I can report to you
without reservation that they are splendid in every
way.
—General Douglas MacArthur
Ever since the kids have been little, they’ve known
that I vanish from their lives periodically. And
they’ve never really had any idea of what it is that I
do. (What do I do, anyway? If I don’t know, why should
they?) We never traveled together at all, but one time
Brendon, my fourteen year old, he got to travel with me
during the summer. And we got a chance to talk to each
other as adults, instead of just father and son.
We left from Boston. We were headed up to the Left Bank
Café in Blue Hill, Maine. Just above Marblehead,
Brendon turned to me and said, “How did you get to be
like that?” (It’s a fair question.) I knew what he
meant, but he didn’t have all the language to say
exactly what he meant. What he meant to say was, “Why
is it that you are fundamentally alienated from the
entire institutional structure of society?”
I said, “Well, I’ve never been asked that, you know.
Now, don’t listen to the radio, and don’t talk to me
for half an hour while I think about it.”
We were driving on Highway 1 because it was pretty and
close to the water. We got up toward the Maine border
and there was a picnic area off to the side. It was a
bright clear day, so I pulled into the parking lot. We
sat down at the picnic tables, and I said, “Now, sit
down. I want to tell you a story. I’ve thought about
it.”
I sat down, and said, “You know, I was over in Korea.”
And he said, “Yeah, I’ve always wondered about that.
Did you shoot anybody?”
I said, as honestly as I could. “I don’t know.”
But that’s not the story.
Listen to what I was telling him:
I was up at the Kumeree Gap, there, by the Imjin River.
There were about 75,000 Chinese soldiers on the other
side of the river, and they all wanted me out of there,
with every righteous reason you could think of. I had
long since figured out that I was the wrong person in
the wrong place at the wrong time for the most specious
of reasons.
But there I was.
My clothing was rotting on my body. Every exotic mold
in the world was attacking my clothing and my person.
My boots had big holes in them from the rot. I wanted
to swim in the Imjin River, and get that feeling of
death, that feeling of rot, off of me. The Chinese
soldiers on the other side, they were swimming and
having a wonderful time. But there was a rule, a
regulation against swimming in the Imjin River.
I thought that was foolish.
But then a young Korean carpenter named Yung Suk Han,
whose family had all been killed off in the war, said
to me, in what English he had, “You know, when we get
married here, the young married couple moves in with
the elders, with the grandparents. But there’s nothing
growing, everything’s been destroyed, there’s no food.
So when the first baby is born, the oldest, usually the
old man, goes out with a jug of water and a blanket,
and sits on the banks of the Imjin River, and waits to
die. He sits there until he dies, and then his body
rolls down into the river, and is carried out to sea.
And we don’t want you swimming in the Imjin River
because our elders are floating out to sea.”
That’s when it began to crumble for me, you know.
That’s when I…well…I ran away. And not just from the
Army. I ran away from the blueprint for
self-destruction I had been handed as a man. For
violence in excess. For sexual excess. For racial
excess. We had a commanding officer who said of the
babies fathered by GI’s and Korean mothers who the
Korean government wouldn’t care for, and so they were
in these orphanages, “Well, as sad as that is, someday
this will really help the Korean people because it will
raise the intelligence level.”
That’s what we were dealing with, you know.
So I ran away.
I ran away down towards Seoul City, down towards ASCOM.
Not to the Army. I ran away to a place called the Korea
House. It was the Korean civilians way of reaching out
to the GI’s to give them some better vision of who they
were than what we were getting up at the divisions.
They hid me for three weeks. I couldn’t go out because
they didn’t have any clothes that would fit me. Late
one night, a stormy night with the rain falling in
sheets, I could go out because they figured nobody’d
see me. We walked through the mud and the rain. Seoul
City was devastated.
They took me to a concert at the AWOL Women’s
University. There was a large auditorium with shell
holes in the ceiling. The rain was pouring through the
holes, and there were clyde lights on the stage hooked
up to car batteries—this wasn’t the USO, this was the
Korean Students’ Association. I was the only white
person there, and the person they had invited to sing
was Marianne Anderson, the great black operatic soprano
who had been on tour in Japan, you see. There she was,
singing “Oh, Freedom” and “Nobody Knows the Trouble
I’ve Seen.”
I watched her through the rain coming through the
ceiling and thought back to Salt Lake, to my father
Sid, who ran the Capitol Theater. It was a movie house,
but it had been an old vaudeville house, and he wanted
to bring live performances back to the Capitol. In
1948, he had invited Marianne Anderson to come and sing
there. I remembered we went to the train station to
pick her up, and took her to the biggest hotel in town,
the Hotel Utah, but they wouldn’t let her stay there
because she was black. I remembered my father’s
humiliation, and her humiliation, as I saw her singing
there through the rain.
And I realized, right then, I said, “Brendon, right
then I knew that it was all wrong, and it all had to
change, and that the change had to start with me…”
Part II
When I got back from Korea, I was so mad at what I’d
seen and done, I wasn’t sure I could ever live in the
country again. I got on the freight trains up in
Everett, north of Seattle, and kind of cruised the
country for two years. I was making up songs, but I was
drunk most of the time, and forgot most of those.
I had heard that there was a house in Salt Lake City by
the railroad rotary yards where there was a clothing
barrel and free food. So I got off the train there (I
was headed for Salt Lake anyway). And I found that
house— right where they said it was!—but most of all I
found this wiry old man, 69 years old, tougher than
nails, heart of gold. A fella by the name of Amund
Hennessey.
Anybody know that name? Amund Hennessey?
You know, one of Dorothy Day’s people, the Catholic
Workers. During the ‘30’s they started houses of
hospitality all over the country. There are about
eighty of them now.
Amund Hennessey was one of those. He’d come west to
start this house I’d found called the Joe Hill House of
Hospitality. Amund Hennessey was a
Catholic-anarchist-pacifist-draft dodger of two world
wars-tax refuser-vegetarian-one man revolution in
America. I think that about covers it…
He was pure hell.
First thing he did, after he got to know me, he said,
“You know you love the country. You love it. You come
in and out of town on these trains, singing songs about
different places and beautiful people. You know you
love the country; you just can’t stand the government.
Get it straight.”
He quoted Mark Twain to me: “Loyalty to the country
always; loyalty to the government when it deserves it.”
It was an essential distinction I had been neglecting.
And then he had to reach out and grapple with the
violence, but he did that with all the people around
him, these second world war vets, you know, on medical
disabilities and all drunked up. The house was filled
with violence, which Amund, as a pacifist, dealt with
every moment, every day of his life.
He said, “You’ve got to be a pacifist.”
I said, “Why?”
He said, “ Because it’ll save your life.”
My behavior was very violent then.
And I said, “What is it?”
He said, “Well, I can’t give you a book by Gandhi
because you wouldn’t understand it. I can’t give you a
list of rules that if you sign it you’re a pacifist.
You look at it like booze. You know, alcoholism will
kill somebody until they finally get the courage to sit
in a circle of people like that, and put their hand up
in the air, and say, ‘Hi, my name’s Utah. I’m an
alcoholic.’ Then you can begin to deal with the
behavior, see, and have the people whose lives have
been destroyed define it for you. It’s the same with
violence, you know. An alcoholic can be dry for 20
years, but they’re never gonna sit in that circle and
say, ‘Well, I’m not an alcoholic anymore.’ It’s the
same with violence. You’ve got to be able to put your
hand in the air and acknowledge your capacity for
violence, and then deal with the behavior. And it’s not
going to go away. You’re going to be dealing with it
every moment in every situation for the rest of your
life.”
I said, “Okay, I’ll try that.”
And Amund said, “It’s not enough.”
And I said, “Oh…”
He said, “You were born a white man in mid-20th century
industrial America. You came into the world armed to
the teeth with an arsenal of weapons, the weapons of
privilege. Racial privilege. Sexual privilege. Economic
privilege. You want to be a pacifist, it’s not just
giving up guns and knives and clubs and fists and angry
words, but giving up the weapons of privilege and going
into the world completely disarmed.”
“Try that.”
That old man has been gone now twenty years, and I’m
still at it. But I figure if there’s a worthwhile
struggle in my own life, that’s probably the one…
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